This is my blog about my upcoming travels. Over the coming years, I plan on some major touring of the planet, and hope you will join me on my quest.
I shall be writing about my adventures through my travelogues, and about the things I learn along the way. I hope that some of my traveller tales will encourage you to pack your suitcase and visit some of these places too.
Preparations for my latest journey to South East Asia are under way and I expect to start posting more on this very soon. There are many ways that you can join me on my adventures. The easiest way is to simply visit the homepage of My Wingin’ it Adventures and follow this blog in the sidebar to the right of the screen.
The basic idea being there is no set plan – I just turn up and see what happens. This is not strictly true for this first trip however as I am reasonably familiar with some of Asia already. There will be a general direction of travel but there won’t be any strict itinerary.
This year I am heading to Pattaya in Thailand to seek out some work opportunities, and as a writer, I am keen on keeping a log of the trip through my travelogue posts.
Travel Videos
I will be adding the best photos and short clips to the Raffstravels Instagram page every step of the way, so check it out for an up to the minute account of where I am and how things are panning out.
I love to cook and learn new recipes from around the globe, so I will be keeping a look out for some new tasty treats for the recipes blog on Mr Writer Speaks.
I have recently put together My Travel Bucket List that I fully intend to achieve over the next few years. Some are relatively small things, but entail a fantastic journey to fulfil them. Which, of course, I shall be writing about every step of the way.
So that’s about it for now, but there’s a lot more to come including travel tips and other travel related articles. So I hope you will join me on my upcoming adventures, and I look forward to hearing some of your feedback.
In January, 2015, I visited Japan for 8 days taking in the sights in Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima. I had always wanted to use the Shinkansen (Bullet Train) and finally got the chance when visiting Kyoto and Hiroshima departing from the Shin-Osaka station.
It was pretty cold as you can see from some of photos and I definitely wasn’t dressed for the occasion, having just flown out, after spending several months in Malaysia.
I stayed in a capsule hotel that had some unexpected and surprising features that I had not anticipated, but it was an interesting experience to say the least!. I spent the day in Kyoto and visited the Manga museum which is housed in a converted school. And I also spent the day at Hiroshima and stood where the bomb had detonated.
To find out more about my trip to Japan, and the rest of Asia, you can now get my book from Amazon on Kindle. The paperback version will be released in the coming days.
This book introduces me and my story while I explore Asia’s fascinating history, especially the relationship between Asia and Europe over the centuries, and how Western influence has played its part in Asia’s development. From simple fishing villages to high-tech industry, I have seen it all.
Shortly after my 21st birthday, a couple of friends and I travelled Europe by rail for seven weeks taking in all the usual sights in Paris, Monaco, Venice, Milan, Florence, Rome, Athens, Vienna, Munich, Belgium, Amsterdam … to name just the highlights. When I was 24, I lived and worked in the Costa del Sol, Spain, for 18 months, where I discovered there was no turning back – I was hooked. At the age of 28, I got my first taste of Asia on a short holiday to Thailand with my father. The following year I began my first solo long haul expedition, starting in Malaysia, where this book begins. It follows my journey over six years as I tell my story of some of the people I met, and the places I visited in my search across the continent.
Speaking of highlights, I wanted to write a book that I would want to read, and I don’t know about you, but I like things to be kept simple. Not to bog you with irrelevant information but merely an introduction to Asia and its history, its people, its customs and its cities, old and new. This book is intended as an easy going read, with some interesting stories throughout history that will hopefully guide you on your journey as they guided me on mine.
This story is about my travels through Asia and some of the things I saw, but it is also a book about what I learnt. I regale stories of trade history between the East and the West, as well as little known information the guidebooks don’t tell you while revealing some harsh truths about our colonial past. During my journey, I discover some of the darker sides of the human race, foreign and domestic, especially during times of war and the hardships that inevitably occurred. In my words, I also describe some of history’s most successful travellers, activists and invaders.
In 2010, I rented a house in a Thai village near the Myanmar border and lived in a small community for several months. I tried to blend in with the Thai way of life as best I could, often with disastrous consequences, and personal tragedy. During my time in the village, I discovered that Thai people are incredibly superstitious when it comes to life and death, and I manage to answer just some of the questions about Thai culture that many of us have in the West.
I learnt early on that having knowledge of the area I was visiting began to bring the place to life, and the more I unearthed about the country, and culture, I was visiting the more spectacular my encounters became. As I moved my way around Asia, discovering ancient cities that had once been crucial to the emerging world economy, I was enamoured when learning about the significant figures that have shaped the way we all live our lives today, orchestrating events that have changed the face of the earth.
When I first arrived in Asia, I had no real idea of what to expect, and I was a reasonably inexperienced traveller. While as I progressed through my journey, I augmented the necessary skills to gain the confidence to get off the beaten track and try to see a part of life that tourists don’t get to see, which unfortunately didn’t always turn out how I expected.
If you are only interested in partying than I can recommend right here and now, to go to Pattaya and Bangkok in Thailand, and you’ll find everything you’re looking for there. But, if you are interested in experiencing a truly fantastic world of beauty and idyllic locations then this book will point you in the right direction.
Before leaving for Asia, I was keen to learn more about the things I had only heard about from watching TV, or from family and friends. For instance, before going to India, I knew little about Gandhi and what he stood for, but after a chance encounter with another passenger on a flight to India, I realised I was already on the path to discovery. Before going to Japan, I was interested in knowing more about the samurai culture and the country’s high-speed railways. And then there are the things I have learnt along the way; trying to scratch the surface of Thailand’s way of life and, of course, the mesmerising history of China and the unexpected surprises of Malaysia.
I have always been fascinated by famous travellers throughout history, and over the course of my journey I attempted to follow in some of their footsteps – feel free to follow in mine … it’s a hell of a ride!
After visiting both The Death Railway and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, it really erks me that the Japanese expect an apology for the Hiroshima bombing. Don’t get me wrong, the atrocity carried out by the Allies during the Second World War was disgusting and I don’t condone it at all.
However, the Japanese were brutal during their wartime campaigns across Asia in their attempts to become the commanding power in Asia following centuries of European dominance in the region. Unfortunately, even in today’s age of fingertip knowledge and technology much of the details about the Japanese atrocities have been largely expurgated in Japan and much of the populous remains ignorant.
In 2009, I visited the Hellfire Pass in Kanchanaburi in Thailand, which was one of the sections of railway that suffered the heaviest loss of life, and for the first time, I recognised what horrors human beings can inflict on one another. However, I was still stunned at the things I saw at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum in 2015.
Walking through the Hellfire Pass
The Japanese people certainly deserve an apology for the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, however perhaps they should also recognise the hell-on-earth they unleashed during their campaign for Asian, and possibly world, domination.
Both sides suffered terribly in the War and I think the Japanese need to take a look at their own history before they condemn the US for using a weapon during a time of conflict. If the Japanese had created the WMD they certainly would have used it, possibly wiping out half of the world too and probably without warning.
Plaque marking the spot of Hiroshima bomb
The Japanese killed and tortured just as many, if not more, people in their slave labour camps. Is this OK in a time of war? Having not signed the Geneva Convention, they did what they liked and killed hundreds of thousands of Asian, European, Australian and American POWs. Is slow torture and murder OK? They amount to the same thing and none can be excused. I know the Japanese people are victims in this tragedy, but it is their rulers and arrogant government that is more to blame. Perhaps they should be looking to their own government for an apology for putting them through this ordeal.
War cemetery at Don Rak, Thailand
I love Japan and I love the people, but come on guys, you gave as good as you got. Why can’t we both just both forgive each other, but if we both cannot forgive, then let’s just forget it.
Despite the obvious turn of phrase, ‘Bombing it in Saigon’ is perhaps a misnomer, but I must admit taking my rickety old rented motorbike onto the road was a little daunting. It is manic on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City and for the first hour I was a little shaky, but I soon realised the best way to get around is to just assimilate and ride like a complete tosser, blending in with all the other suicidal drivers. I barely broke 40kmph anyway, and on the rare occasion I did go any faster, the motorbike began to make the most unholy of noises!
That’s one of the good things about most of the Asian countries; you can pretty much ride as slow as you like (keeping out of the way of course), and I usually give visiting friends that very same advice. Just take it is easy and it will be fine.
I made a list of things that I wanted to seek out in the city:
The FITO Museum
Thien Hau Temple
Chi’s Café
Nguyen Plaza & City Hall
Emperor Jade Pagoda
Cu Chi Tunnels
Ben Thanh Market
Independence Palace
Parking in the city was a bit tricky to begin with, but after a couple of days I began to get the hang of it. Motorbikes should be left with someone who can watch over the motorbike, and though there are hundreds of places to leave a bike in the city, I struggled to understand the correct protocol. The first place I managed to park was outside a multi-restaurant building housing half a dozen fast food chains, near the City Hall. I pulled up onto the curb and an attendee came over and parked it up for me and then handed me a ticket. I paused for a moment just in case he needed payment but he didn’t say anything so I assumed it was free.
I was pretty sure the Nguyen Plaza is permanently closed off to traffic, and is made up of two roads that surround a central walking area. It was still the New Year and the place was quite busy, though I had read that the place comes to life at night. I walked the length of the walking street until I got to the City Hall. It is quite an elegant colonial building that was built by the French in 1908 and is similar to the former Hotel de Ville’s design, based on the Paris original. However, the public aren’t allowed inside because it is still a functional government building. I headed back to my motorbike and handed the guy my ticket, again, I paused for a moment to see if he required any payment, but it didn’t look like it.
This went on until I parked at the FITO Museum. When leaving, I handed the guy my ticket and he asked me for payment for watching my bike. It was only 5,000 dong (16p) and it is good to know the bike is safe. There is very little information online about parking etiquette in Ho Chi Minh City, but from what I gather the usual price is between 5,000 and 10,000., and it is wise to park the bike with someone wearing official clothing, outside a restaurant or high-street shop etc. I tended to always offer 5,000 first, when returning to my bike, but on occasion I was asked for 10,000. Once I got the hang of it, it became a little easier; though driving around the city looking for a decent spot was difficult. Since the traffic is fierce, it’s not always possible to stop in time, and with so many one way streets it can be difficult to turn around.
The FITO Museum was quite interesting. The building itself was built by a local man, whose name I can’t recall. He built the house out of wood and carved many of the building’s features. This was one of the better museums I visited in Vietnam and is definitely worth a look. When I arrived I was asked to sit down and watch a short film about natural medicine and how a lot of it originated in Vietnam, which was then adopted in China by the ruling powers. The methodology seemed quite simple and sensible to me. In the West, holistic medicine is based on getting the right balance. Upset the balance and illness and disease can occur. Correct the balance and people should get better. It’s all about the Yin and Yang, and there are five elements that must be kept in balance, according to Vietnamese medicine, and If one is insufficient then it must be rectified. For instance, if someone is deficient in metal, causing specific symptoms, then taking the correct minerals, foods or herbs to fix the problem is the correct solution. To me this makes perfect sense and there must be some validly to this concept otherwise it would never have stood the test of time.
I really enjoyed walking around the house and seeing the old fashion pharmacy that is on the second floor. A lot of the remedies were quite common supermarket items, such as Star Anise, Ginger and Lemongrass as well as unknown ones like black beans that cure ‘Wind Wetness Syndrome’ – I shit you not (pun intended). I’ve always believed in natural cures and remedies, and I found it all quite interesting, and perhaps I might even read a book or two about Vietnamese medicine in the future.
Despite many of the city’s hotspots being within a two mile radius of downtown Saigon, there are a few sights in the top 50 places to visit, according to TripAdvisor, which were dotted around the city. The Thien Hau Temple received high praise, so I decided to ride across town to go in search of it. In my early days in Asia, I figured once you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all, but nothing could be further from the truth. Most are unique and it only takes about ten minutes to have a look. They are usually filled with the smell of incense and gold leaf Buddha’s, but the couple of temples I saw in HCMC also had light displays which were pretty cool, for a temple. It’s not worth going out of your way to see it, but if you’re into seeking out a bit of culture on your trip then it’s worth dropping by. One of the coolest things in the temple were the burning spiral incense sticks that were hanging from the ceiling. I think they were for sale and I would have had one if I could have got it home in one piece.
On my way out, I tried to ask the attendee about leaving the motorbike in the carpark, whilst I searched the local area for something to eat. He was only a young lad and he gave me the most bizarre of hand gestures, and I couldn’t quite figure out what he was trying to say. It was a kind of camp wave, followed by a disgusted look, which could have meant yes OK or no f**k off. In the end, I just said to the guy, “Forget it,” and I got back on my bike.
During the few days I was riding around the city, I decided to dust off my action-cam and attached it to my crash helmet. Unfortunately, like always, I got the angle wrong and all I managed to film was 25 minutes of blue sky and the occasional traffic light, which was a shame because as I was pulling into the Emperor Jade Pagoda complex, a fight broke out between a woman and a security guard (you had to be there). The place was heaving with people and it was still pretty early in the morning. The grounds have been utilised as a car park and the place was filled with people and motorbikes. The temple itself was in use and I couldn’t get inside the building through the masses of people who had come to prey for something. Many people were carrying ‘offerings’ on their heads and were waiting to get into the main building. I hung around for about five minutes to witness the event, but stood out like a gorping tourist quite a bit, which I always hate.
After a few hours of riding around the city, it was time to get jacked-up on some caffeine, and I found a coffee shop around the corner from the Ben Thanh Market. Not wishing to sound too much like a connoisseur, I found Vietnamese coffee to be very different from the European brew, with a kind of thick velvety quality that has a hint of cocoa. One of Vietnam’s main exports is coffee but I wasn’t always that impressed, though I did purchase a bag of beans for 70,000 dong. Coffee is for sale in abundance in the Ben Thanh Market, and expect to be hassled from the moment you get in there. It’s not too bad, but it’s definitely worth haggling. I managed to pick up some Chinese tea for 30 percent off, though I was probably still paying over the odds. They also sell snake wine which, depending on the size of the bottle, has a dead snake inside and sometimes a scorpion. At first I wasn’t interested but thought it would make a good souvenir, but I wasn’t sure how customs, in the UK, would feel about me bringing dead reptiles into the country, so I abandoned the idea. There is of course loads of other stuff in the market from food stalls, cloths, sweets etc.
When I first rented the motorbike near Chi’s Café, I didn’t stop to take a look around the area, and seeing at it is where the main congregation of backpackers and guesthouses are, I figured I should take a walk around. After having the motorbike for a few days, I took it back and retrieved my passport that was being held ransom for the piece-of-shit bike I was riding. There are dozens of tourist agents selling all kinds of tours from river cruises to the Cu Chi Tunnels. I asked around for a few prices and decided to have a think about it. Most tourist locations are near Chi’s Café and many of the sights can be reached on foot, but after handing back the bike, I realised I was hassled a lot more by people trying to offer me bike rides around the city. I was always polite, though on a couple of occasions I had to stand there for a minute or two trying to get away from some of the touts, who were trying to tell me their life story.
On my way back to the hotel, I popped into the Independence Palace, but I certainly wouldn’t put it at the top of your list of places to visit. I suppose it was OK. It’s basically just a huge government building, which contains some history about the closing days of the Vietnam War, but I wasn’t all that fussed.
Riding a motorbike in Vietnam is something I’ve wanted to do for a few years and there is only one word that can describe it … CRAZY! The biggest dangers are buses and cross roads, and combine the two together and that’s some brutal riding right there. Buses tend to plough ahead honking their horn and everyone is to get out of the way. Junctions mean nothing, and it was common practice to have people pull out in front of me without even looking. I saw a guy filter through a flow of motorbikes coming from the left like it was nothing. Roundabouts are pretty cool. They are kind of like driving around a large car park with motorbikes coming from every direction but everyone is moving quite slow. It all seems a little dangerous, but it’s a lot of fun.
I thoroughly enjoyed exploring Ho Chi Minh City by motorbike and possible saved a few quid by seeing most of the city without a tour guide. Unfortunately I didn’t get the opportunity to get out on the open road, but at least now I have broken the seal on Vietnam. I have plans in the pipeline to do a motorbike tour in the next couple of years so I am definitely looking forward to a trip to Hanoi sometime in the future.
As for currency issues, It’s quite common to read that US dollars are preferred in Vietnam, and this may be the case in other parts of the country, but in Ho Chi Minh it wasn’t an issue once. The dong is the currency of Vietnam and it is accepted everywhere, however I was often quoted prices in dollars, especially in the tourist agent shops near Chi’s Café, but once I asked to be quoted in dong, it wasn’t a problem. I think it is a misconception by tourists who feel they should take dollars, and therefore the locals expect it. However no local is going to turn down dong if you don’t have dollars.
So technically I’ve done one of the things on my travel bucket list, but it’s obviously not what I had in mind. Still, I came and I done it. I also had my own transport for getting around the city, and I wasn’t beholden to tour guides and taxi drivers. Having said that, it’s not easy to find places, or park, in the city and unless you really want to ride motorbikes in Vietnam, I would recommend getting a tour guide who will take you where you want to go. The best option is to hire a driver for the day and give him a list of places to visit.
Upon reflection though, I found most places without too much trouble; it may have taken a bit longer but I got there in the end. I often saw tour groups being shown around museums or people hanging around their coaches waiting to be taken to their next destination. I have to say it’s not for me. I think the last time I went on a guided tour was when I had the worst hangover last year in India. The only tour I considered doing on this trip would be to the Cu Chi Tunnels. I would have preferred to have gone there on my own, but I didn’t want to risk taking the bike out of the city for fear of getting in trouble.
Getting around Ho Chi Minh City, at first glance, may appear to be a daunting task. With some 3 million motorbikes for its 6.6 million residents, simply crossing the street presents itself as a great challenge. Buses are a popular mode of transport in Ho Chi Minh City, but I have never been one for them because it always seems like hassle. You can be sure the driver won’t speak English, and figuring out the correct ticket price isn’t easy, and trying to explain where I want to go and when to get off is a pain in the arse I could do without. The best taxis in Saigon are Vinasun Taxi and Mai Linh Taxi, which should offer a metered service and are considered the most trust worthy.
Unfortunately Ho Chi Minh is not a charming city; however my initial thoughts were a little misguided since the place was like a ghost town when I first arrived, due to the New Year holiday. Once everywhere began to open up it seemed much more welcoming, and the place began to grow on me, though I think I would need a good reason to come back anytime soon.
I got the idea that there were several places that rented motorbikes in the city but unless I actually saw, in English, the words ‘Rent Motorbike’ I wasn’t going anywhere near them. I was sure I would have to surrender my passport, and there was no way I was going to hand it over to some geezer on the street that I can’t even have a conversation with. I ran a search on Google Maps for rentals in the city when a handful came up. One that caught my eye in particular was a place called Chi’s Café. It was a fair distance journey on foot but I figured if this was all that I did that day then it would be worth it. I set out around mid-day in the hot sun following my cursor on the map, as I meandered my way down back alleys and side streets. After an hour I was starting to get a bit pissed off, but I could now see many more foreigners on the streets, so I figured I was getting close to a tourist area.
I began to think Chi’s Café could also just be a woman, who doesn’t speak English, by the side of the street renting bikes, but I had to give it a shot. About twenty minutes later, I found the café, and it was right in the heart of the tourist area, and it probably would have been a good place to stay with an abundance of cheap guesthouses. There were dozens of restaurants, and I guessed this is where most foreigners hang out, especially backpackers. The area is called Phạm Ngũ Lão Street and everyone spoke pretty good English, which was a first since I had I arrived in the country. I knew there must have been a tourist congregation somewhere in the city and this was it.
After having some well needed lunch, I enquired about renting a motorbike and there seemed to be a few decent ones around. She said it was 120,000 dong (£4) a day, so I said I would take it for 4 days. After paying my bill and surrendering my passport, Chi showed me to my dusty, clapped-out old banger of a bike, she had brought out from a dark and dank corner. After wiping away the cobwebs she told me that I mustn’t take the bike out of the city, which was my intention, but by the look of it I didn’t think it would make it anyway. I think she said that if the police stop me on the bike outside the city they will confiscate it, but I wondered whether she was just ‘blowing smoke’. She also said that I mustn’t just park the bike anywhere because it will get stolen, and I must leave it with someone and get a ticket … outside a restaurant etc.
Nice mirror!
Security guards are a common sight outside shops even during the day, and there are barriers in use protecting department stores and the like. I was hoping to take the bike to the Cu Chi Tunnels and complete number #8 of my travel bucket list in style, but I guess for now that will have to do. I have plans in the pipeline to buy a motorbike in Asia in the next couple of years and may do an extensive road trip then; possibly China as well, but that’s a blog for another day.
So I got on the bike, that was probably older than me, and headed out onto the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh City, and I don’t mind telling you I was shitting myself with traffic coming from all directions and near death experiences on every turn. Out of habit, I kept looking in my right hand mirror when I kept realising the thing was missing, so moving into the right hand lane was a little tricky! I had a rough idea of the direction I wanted to go in, but I had to stop a couple of times to check the map. Slightly trembling, I made it back to the hotel in one peace. Parking at the hotel has security so at least I didn’t have to worry about that. Dodgy place, Vietnam, with a lot of crooks about!
I discovered I wasn’t far away from the action with several attractions being within an hour’s walk away. In accordance with my travel bucket list, I was keen to hire a motorbike, but there was nowhere near the hotel that rented them. I decided I would head into the town centre on foot and try my luck there. However, I was a little concerned about security at the hotel and was a bit worried about leaving a rental outside.
I saved a few locations on Google Maps including the War Remnants Museum, Cu Chi Tunnels and Saigon Square including a couple of places for potential bike rental. I figured that would be a good start for my first day in Vietnam.
I was keen to do some tours, but I do like to seek places out for myself first, and in anticipation of doing some motorcycling I saved an offline map on my Tablet, which I thought would come in handy later. Downtown Hồ Chí Minh is quite small, probably not much more than two miles squared. It is quite common to be stopped by men on motorbikes asking if I needed a taxi, but I just waved them on and shook my head. They are not official, or regulated, and most of the bikes look like leftovers from the war. The city itself is modern though, to me, it looked like it had been built in the 90s and hasn’t been upgraded since. Following the war, that ended in 1975, major redevelopment took place in the late1970s.
The War occurred in Vietnam from November 1, 1955, to the fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975. US and South Vietnamese forces relied on air superiority and overwhelming firepower to conduct search and destroy operations involving ground forces, artillery and airstrikes. In the course of the war, the US conducted a large-scale strategic bombing campaign against North Vietnam.
Hồ Chí Minh was a Vietnamese Communist revolutionary leader who was prime minister (1945–55) and president (1945–69) of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam). He was a key figure in the foundation of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in 1945, as well as the People’s Army during the Vietnam War. He is highly regarded in Vietnam, obviously, since they renamed (Saigon) a city after him and his portrait is on all the banknotes. However, the name provokes strong anti-communist feeling in a substantial number of Vietnamese, especially those living abroad and many continue to refer to the city as Sài Gòn, in rejection of the new Communist-imposed name.
Hồ Chí Minh stepped down from power in 1965 due to health problems but remained a highly visible figurehead and inspiration for those Vietnamese fighting for his cause—a united, communist Vietnam—until his death. After the war, Saigon, the former capital was renamed Hồ Chí Minh City. With the outcome of the Vietnam War still in question, Hồ Chí Minh died in 1969 from heart failure at his home in Hanoi, aged 79. His embalmed body is currently on display in a mausoleum in Ba Đình Square in Hanoi despite his will stating that he wanted to be cremated.
It took a couple of days to get my head around the currency. It’s about 32,000 dong to the pound and notes can build up fast, so it’s wise to try to spend the lower denominations as and when, and within two days my wallet was filled with a massive wedge. I don’t think breaking change for a 500,000 note is a problem in most places, but I usually saved those for places I knew could handle it, like Pizza Hut, and tried to unload the smaller notes when eating from street sellers etc.
Due to the New Year celebrations, most of the city was closed and traffic seemed light compared to what I thought it would be like. Certainly not like the ‘chocking standstill traffic’ I’d read about, but I was sure once the things got back to normal I was in for a surprise. I figured I should get my arse into gear and hire a motorbike whilst the city was in ‘downtime’.
It was a 30 minute walk in the hot sun to get into the centre of town, and I figured a good place to start was the War Remnants Museum. It cost 15,000 dong (46p) for the entrance fee. It was definitely worth the visit but it was very overcrowded and too hot to stand there reading all of the information on the walls, so I cruised through at a reasonable pace.
Outside in the courtyard, there were various war vehicles that were left behind after the Americans left. Unfortunately, again, there were people everywhere and I was getting a little frustrated trying to take photos without people in my shot. I couldn’t believe how many people could see that I was trying to take a photo but would just walk in front of me anyway, not even acknowledging they had done it. Most photos I did get normally contained signs saying ‘No climbing’ or ‘Do not touch’ which kind of kills the magic a little anyway and makes them less likely I would put them on Instagram.
There was a guillotine which I was rather impressed with. It was my first one, and although a rather archaic device, there was something rather historic and authentic about it, which I always find exciting … obviously not for the poor sods that met their end this way! There was also a mock-up prisoner in a cell and a few recovered torture devices on display. In the main building was an abundance of photos and paintings with descriptions. There was an exhibit of photographs and newspaper articles on protests from around the world condemning US involvement in the War. I tried to find if the UK had protested but I couldn’t find any evidence …
After the museum, I headed to Saigon Square but Google Maps must have given me bad directions because I couldn’t see anything. All I saw was an abandoned street that looked like a Soviet compound after a nuclear meltdown. Not impressed, I trudged along in the heat of the day until I stumbled upon the main concentration of tourist hotspots, which I later discovered was Saigon Square … there seems to be more than one! From a distance, I could see Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office where I managed to buy and send some postcards. The Post Office was rather quaint and looked like an old train station with a huge arched ceiling; however, I didn’t know what it was until I got inside the building. Although the Vietnamese use the Roman alphabet, there is very little English throughout the whole town which makes visiting restaurants, and other buildings, slightly off-putting. It seems that most places aren’t that welcoming, which I would say is mostly a language thing. In Pattaya, Thailand, you can’t walk 30 seconds without someone calling you into a shop, restaurant, massage, taxi etc.
After years of threatening to visit Vietnam I finally got around to doing it. In my early days of traveling to Asia, I was told a few horror stories about the country. None of which would bother me today, but I think hearing rumours about dodgy taxi drivers or currency issues created a deep routed apprehension about coming alone but, on first glimpse of Ho Chi Minh City, I wondered why I had left it so long.
Usually I can find, and book, a hotel on Agoda.com in less than fifteen minutes but, a few weeks previous to the trip, I spent over four hours browsing hotels. I had never seen so many bad reviews for hotels in all my travelling days. Possibly weakening in will-power, I booked a place that only had one review, which of course was impeccable. Like a newbie, I paid for the room straight-up, in line with hotel policy. Afterwards I thought it was probably a mistake to book a place with only one review because anyone could have written it. A week before the trip, I went back to see if there was any other reviews … when my heart sank. A woman had left a review saying that the place was down an alleyway and right in front of the hotel was a building site. She also said that she had been robbed outside the hotel, and the place wasn’t near any of the hotpots. Seeing as I had already paid (with no refund), I was committed and decided to just go with the flow.
I usually try and stay in cheap to mid-range hotels in Thailand and avoid backpacker places unless I’m in a party mood. Nowadays I prefer my own air-conditioned room, preferably with a TV and my own bathroom. My rule is never more than £20 a night, but I normally stay in places from anywhere between £7 to £15. Since I was visiting Ho Chi Minh for a week’s holiday, I thought I would push the boat out a little and book what I thought would be a good hotel.
I always get a little nervous when visiting a new country and reading about places can often be a bad idea. I managed to skip through Immigration without having to queue. My suitcase was the first to come out on the carousel and there were plenty of kiosks to book a prepaid taxi, in the terminal building. Everything was going swimmingly until I enquired about getting a SIM card for my Tablet. The girl wanted to fit it for me and asked me to remove it from its case when … smash the screen went. Absolutely gutted, I didn’t bother with the SIM card in the end. Feigning happiness, I left the kiosk and headed for my taxi.
My mood was quickly lifted though when I walked into my hotel room which was absolutely amazing, and it’s safe to say that it’s probably one of the nicest hotel rooms I’ve ever been in. It was huge, and the luxury bathtub made everything nice and cosy. I hooked up my media player to the 42” flat screen TV on the wall and now my palace was complete.
I was checked in by 10.00am so I still had the whole of the first day to go and explore, so I spent an hour on Tripadvisor and Google Maps, whilst I figured out my next move. I then took a walk around the city for a couple of hours, but I was slightly out of the tourist areas and was the subject of many a bewildered look, as I followed the map around fruitlessly trying to find an HSBC bank. I found myself walking through some local alleyways where there were loads of people playing cards and gambling on games I had never seen before. All shops seemed to be closed. It was a Tuesday and I was wondering whether it was a public holiday (Chinese New Year). After a long day of no sleep and too much caffeine, I took solace in relaxing in my fantastic, spacious hotel room and had and early night.
I know … nice shirt! No wonder I was getting looks …
The first week of the trip was the worst I’ve ever had, with regards to jetlag, and for some reason I just couldn’t get on Thailand time. When I arrived in the city, around 9pm, I discovered that my usual hotel was closed. I had never needed a reservation before and normally I’d just turn up. I was met by a guy who was manning the car park, and he told me that the hotel wasn’t accepting anymore guests because they were shutting down. Slightly disappointed with the end of an era, I managed to get a room in another place called the Condotel. It was slightly more expensive but it was OK, or so I thought …
Although superior to my old hotel, I quickly learned that they were doing some refurbishing, and I was woken to the sound of an angle-grinder and hammering every morning at 8.58am. Breakfast was between 7-10am, but I never made it down in time for the first five days. Even though my wake-up call was less than perfect, I was glad to be getting up at a reasonable time, but the constant hammering throughout the day, until 6pm, was often infuriating.
This year, I decided to adopt a policy of drinking alcohol for the first couple evenings to help me sleep and it seemed to work, but by the 3rd night I’d had enough and just wanted a quiet night in. But for several days following, I just could not get into a regular sleeping pattern. The real life saver was my new media player that connects to almost any TV, which is packed full of TV shows and movies to keep me occupied during those nights of insomnia. Jetlag tends to turn me into the 19 year old I once was: Drinking too much; not getting enough sleep, then getting up and doing it all over again!
By the 3rd day, I decided to take a trip out to one of the large shopping centres in Bangkok called MBK via the Skytrain (BTS). It’s a good place to visit for a few hours if you like to do a bit of shopping. As I was leaving, I found the Bangkok Art Exhibition Centre and decided to waste some more time in there. Last year on Langkawi Island, I had an amazing time photographing wildlife in Malaysia, and since then I have developed a mild interest in photography (mostly as a pastime). I was quite impressed with some of the black and white photos, on display, of some of Thailand’s lesser known regions. They were setup by CameraEyes, school of fine art photography, by Somchai Suriyasathaporn. The display was of mountains, trees, streams, waterfalls, islands, sea, rainforest, mangroves and old forests. Some of the photos were quite spectacular.
There was also the Exhibition Water Colour of Asean: A collection of paintings featuring areas of Melaka and Penang in Malaysia: two areas that I am very familiar with, and I recognised many of the places in the paintings.
Studhays Building, Melaka
By the Friday night, I was ready for another night of boozing and met with a friend of mine called Terry. He is a member of the World Hash Harriers: an organisation that was setup for expats to meet with one another and go jogging in various places in Bangkok, or anywhere else around the world. He first got involved with the organisation when he was living in Spain, and then continued to meet people when he moved to Thailand. My blood is too thick for Bangkok, so I declined the offer to go for a run, but I decided to come along, just for a drink, and meet a few people at the Kiki bar, near Nana station. It was a great night and I met some wonderful people from around the world, including some local Thai’s.
Five days deep and I still hadn’t managed to get into a regular sleeping pattern. Still, I persevered and decided to take a walk to the Queen Sirikit Park: a beautiful recreational area near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. As I approached through the main gate, I could see there was some kind of event being held in the park. It was run by the Bird Conservation Society in Thailand. It was mostly all written in Thai, but I could see a banner showing what kinds of birdlife can be found in Bangkok. Fresh from my experiences in Langkawi earlier on in the year, I decided to take a stroll around the park for an hour and try to snap some wildlife, but I didn’t capture much. I found little information online, in English, about the event, but I got the gist of what they’re all about.
I originally intended to stay in Bangkok only for 5 nights, but in the end I was there a week. I was still knackered from upset sleeping patterns that would ultimately continue well into the second week. I really didn’t fancy traipsing across Bangkok with my suitcase, so I booked a taxi to take me straight to Pattaya for 1500 Bhat (£30) and so the next leg of my journey was about to begin …
We all know that our time spent on holiday is meant to be filled with outdoor activities but sometimes, especially on long trips, we just want to curl up in our hotel room and watch a movie. Laptops and Tablets are great for watching TV shows but, let’s face it, if we can get something out of the TV – all the better.
After years of travelling, I was introduced to the media player by a friend last year in Thailand. I know some people would have been using them for years, but it has revolutionised my ‘down time’. With a selection of input methods such as HDMI, RCA, Skart and VGA, it is easy to connect to any TV no matter how old it is. Complete with remote control, it is an essential tool when travelling for long periods, or with kids. Without trying to endorse any particular product, I won’t give the brand name of the one I’m using, but they can be found on Amazon, or most other electrical retailers.
It’s a little bit like travelling around with my very own Skybox (filled with the TV shows I want to see). On those rainy days it’s a life saver …
Walking the streets of Penang, in search of a Thali, looking around Little India, I found a place that does excellent food. Whilst I was waiting for my meal to be prepared, I heard music coming from outside the restaurant:
See more photos on my Instagram page. For photos pertaining to my upcoming book, A Learning Curve, you can use the hashtag #raffsbook.
The first week of the trip was the worst I’ve ever had, with regards to jetlag, and for some reason I just couldn’t get on Thailand time. When I arrived in the city, around 9pm, I discovered that my usual hotel was closed. I had never needed a reservation before and normally I’d just turn up. I was met by a guy who was manning the car park, and he told me that the hotel wasn’t accepting anymore guests because they were shutting down. Slightly disappointed with the end of an era, I managed to get a room in another place called the Condotel. It was slightly more expensive but it was OK, or so I thought …
Wingin' it 