Bombing it in Saigon

Bombing it

Despite the obvious turn of phrase, ‘Bombing it in Saigon’ is perhaps a misnomer, but I must admit taking my rickety old rented motorbike onto the road was a little daunting. It is manic on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City and for the first hour I was a little shaky, but I soon realised the best way to get around is to just assimilate and ride like a complete tosser, blending in with all the other suicidal drivers. I barely broke 40kmph anyway, and on the rare occasion I did go any faster, the motorbike began to make the most unholy of noises!

That’s one of the good things about most of the Asian countries; you can pretty much ride as slow as you like (keeping out of the way of course), and I usually give visiting friends that very same advice. Just take it is easy and it will be fine.

I made a list of things that I wanted to seek out in the city:

  • The FITO Museum
  • Thien Hau Temple
  • Chi’s Café
  • Nguyen Plaza & City Hall
  • Emperor Jade Pagoda
  • Cu Chi Tunnels
  • Ben Thanh Market
  • Independence Palace

Parking in the city was a bit tricky to begin with, but after a couple of days I began to get the hang of it. Motorbikes should be left with someone who can watch over the motorbike, and though there are hundreds of places to leave a bike in the city, I struggled to understand the correct protocol. The first place I managed to park was outside a multi-restaurant building housing half a dozen fast food chains, near the City Hall. I pulled up onto the curb and an attendee came over and parked it up for me and then handed me a ticket. I paused for a moment just in case he needed payment but he didn’t say anything so I assumed it was free.

Plaza building

I was pretty sure the Nguyen Plaza is permanently closed off to traffic, and is made up of two roads that surround a central walking area. It was still the New Year and the place was quite busy, though I had read that the place comes to life at night. I walked the length of the walking street until I got to the City Hall. It is quite an elegant colonial building that was built by the French in 1908 and is similar to the former Hotel de Ville’s design, based on the Paris original. However, the public aren’t allowed inside because it is still a functional government building. I headed back to my motorbike and handed the guy my ticket, again, I paused for a moment to see if he required any payment, but it didn’t look like it.

This went on until I parked at the FITO Museum. When leaving, I handed the guy my ticket and he asked me for payment for watching my bike. It was only 5,000 dong (16p) and it is good to know the bike is safe. There is very little information online about parking etiquette in Ho Chi Minh City, but from what I gather the usual price is between 5,000 and 10,000., and it is wise to park the bike with someone wearing official clothing, outside a restaurant or high-street shop etc. I tended to always offer 5,000 first, when returning to my bike, but on occasion I was asked for 10,000. Once I got the hang of it, it became a little easier; though driving around the city looking for a decent spot was difficult. Since the traffic is fierce, it’s not always possible to stop in time, and with so many one way streets it can be difficult to turn around.

Old bags of viet medicine

The FITO Museum was quite interesting. The building itself was built by a local man, whose name I can’t recall. He built the house out of wood and carved many of the building’s features. This was one of the better museums I visited in Vietnam and is definitely worth a look. When I arrived I was asked to sit down and watch a short film about natural medicine and how a lot of it originated in Vietnam, which was then adopted in China by the ruling powers. The methodology seemed quite simple and sensible to me. In the West, holistic medicine is based on getting the right balance. Upset the balance and illness and disease can occur. Correct the balance and people should get better. It’s all about the Yin and Yang, and there are five elements that must be kept in balance, according to Vietnamese medicine, and If one is insufficient then it must be rectified. For instance, if someone is deficient in metal, causing specific symptoms, then taking the correct minerals, foods or herbs to fix the problem is the correct solution. To me this makes perfect sense and there must be some validly to this concept otherwise it would never have stood the test of time.

Medicine cabinet 2

I really enjoyed walking around the house and seeing the old fashion pharmacy that is on the second floor. A lot of the remedies were quite common supermarket items, such as Star Anise, Ginger and Lemongrass as well as unknown ones like black beans that cure ‘Wind Wetness Syndrome’ – I shit you not (pun intended). I’ve always believed in natural cures and remedies, and I found it all quite interesting, and perhaps I might even read a book or two about Vietnamese medicine in the future.

Spiral 3

Despite many of the city’s hotspots being within a two mile radius of downtown Saigon, there are a few sights in the top 50 places to visit, according to TripAdvisor, which were dotted around the city. The Thien Hau Temple received high praise, so I decided to ride across town to go in search of it. In my early days in Asia, I figured once you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all, but nothing could be further from the truth. Most are unique and it only takes about ten minutes to have a look. They are usually filled with the smell of incense and gold leaf Buddha’s, but the couple of temples I saw in HCMC also had light displays which were pretty cool, for a temple. It’s not worth going out of your way to see it, but if you’re into seeking out a bit of culture on your trip then it’s worth dropping by. One of the coolest things in the temple were the burning spiral incense sticks that were hanging from the ceiling. I think they were for sale and I would have had one if I could have got it home in one piece.

Spiral 1

On my way out, I tried to ask the attendee about leaving the motorbike in the carpark, whilst I searched the local area for something to eat. He was only a young lad and he gave me the most bizarre of hand gestures, and I couldn’t quite figure out what he was trying to say. It was a kind of camp wave, followed by a disgusted look, which could have meant yes OK or no f**k off. In the end, I just said to the guy, “Forget it,” and I got back on my bike.

Jade Pagoda 2

During the few days I was riding around the city, I decided to dust off my action-cam and attached it to my crash helmet. Unfortunately, like always, I got the angle wrong and all I managed to film was 25 minutes of blue sky and the occasional traffic light, which was a shame because as I was pulling into the Emperor Jade Pagoda complex, a fight broke out between a woman and a security guard (you had to be there). The place was heaving with people and it was still pretty early in the morning. The grounds have been utilised as a car park and the place was filled with people and motorbikes. The temple itself was in use and I couldn’t get inside the building through the masses of people who had come to prey for something. Many people were carrying ‘offerings’ on their heads and were waiting to get into the main building. I hung around for about five minutes to witness the event, but stood out like a gorping tourist quite a bit, which I always hate.


After a few hours of riding around the city, it was time to get jacked-up on some caffeine, and I found a coffee shop around the corner from the Ben Thanh Market. Not wishing to sound too much like a connoisseur, I found Vietnamese coffee to be very different from the European brew, with a kind of thick velvety quality that has a hint of cocoa. One of Vietnam’s main exports is coffee but I wasn’t always that impressed, though I did purchase a bag of beans for 70,000 dong. Coffee is for sale in abundance in the Ben Thanh Market, and expect to be hassled from the moment you get in there. It’s not too bad, but it’s definitely worth haggling. I managed to pick up some Chinese tea for 30 percent off, though I was probably still paying over the odds. They also sell snake wine which, depending on the size of the bottle, has a dead snake inside and sometimes a scorpion. At first I wasn’t interested but thought it would make a good souvenir, but I wasn’t sure how customs, in the UK, would feel about me bringing dead reptiles into the country, so I abandoned the idea. There is of course loads of other stuff in the market from food stalls, cloths, sweets etc.

Snake Wine

When I first rented the motorbike near Chi’s Café, I didn’t stop to take a look around the area, and seeing at it is where the main congregation of backpackers and guesthouses are, I figured I should take a walk around. After having the motorbike for a few days, I took it back and retrieved my passport that was being held ransom for the piece-of-shit bike I was riding. There are dozens of tourist agents selling all kinds of tours from river cruises to the Cu Chi Tunnels. I asked around for a few prices and decided to have a think about it. Most tourist locations are near Chi’s Café and many of the sights can be reached on foot, but after handing back the bike, I realised I was hassled a lot more by people trying to offer me bike rides around the city. I was always polite, though on a couple of occasions I had to stand there for a minute or two trying to get away from some of the touts, who were trying to tell me their life story.

Independence Palace

On my way back to the hotel, I popped into the Independence Palace, but I certainly wouldn’t put it at the top of your list of places to visit. I suppose it was OK. It’s basically just a huge government building, which contains some history about the closing days of the Vietnam War, but I wasn’t all that fussed.

Riding a motorbike in Vietnam is something I’ve wanted to do for a few years and there is only one word that can describe it … CRAZY! The biggest dangers are buses and cross roads, and combine the two together and that’s some brutal riding right there. Buses tend to plough ahead honking their horn and everyone is to get out of the way. Junctions mean nothing, and it was common practice to have people pull out in front of me without even looking. I saw a guy filter through a flow of motorbikes coming from the left like it was nothing. Roundabouts are pretty cool. They are kind of like driving around a large car park with motorbikes coming from every direction but everyone is moving quite slow. It all seems a little dangerous, but it’s a lot of fun.

I thoroughly enjoyed exploring Ho Chi Minh City by motorbike and possible saved a few quid by seeing most of the city without a tour guide. Unfortunately I didn’t get the opportunity to get out on the open road, but at least now I have broken the seal on Vietnam. I have plans in the pipeline to do a motorbike tour in the next couple of years so I am definitely looking forward to a trip to Hanoi sometime in the future.

Ho chi minh currency vietnam

As for currency issues, It’s quite common to read that US dollars are preferred in Vietnam, and this may be the case in other parts of the country, but in Ho Chi Minh it wasn’t an issue once. The dong is the currency of Vietnam and it is accepted everywhere, however I was often quoted prices in dollars, especially in the tourist agent shops near Chi’s Café, but once I asked to be quoted in dong, it wasn’t a problem. I think it is a misconception by tourists who feel they should take dollars, and therefore the locals expect it. However no local is going to turn down dong if you don’t have dollars.

So technically I’ve done one of the things on my travel bucket list, but it’s obviously not what I had in mind. Still, I came and I done it. I also had my own transport for getting around the city, and I wasn’t beholden to tour guides and taxi drivers. Having said that, it’s not easy to find places, or park, in the city and unless you really want to ride motorbikes in Vietnam, I would recommend getting a tour guide who will take you where you want to go. The best option is to hire a driver for the day and give him a list of places to visit.

Upon reflection though, I found most places without too much trouble; it may have taken a bit longer but I got there in the end. I often saw tour groups being shown around museums or people hanging around their coaches waiting to be taken to their next destination. I have to say it’s not for me. I think the last time I went on a guided tour was when I had the worst hangover last year in India. The only tour I considered doing on this trip would be to the Cu Chi Tunnels. I would have preferred to have gone there on my own, but I didn’t want to risk taking the bike out of the city for fear of getting in trouble.

Getting around Ho Chi Minh City, at first glance, may appear to be a daunting task. With some 3 million motorbikes for its 6.6 million residents, simply crossing the street presents itself as a great challenge. Buses are a popular mode of transport in Ho Chi Minh City, but I have never been one for them because it always seems like hassle. You can be sure the driver won’t speak English, and figuring out the correct ticket price isn’t easy, and trying to explain where I want to go and when to get off is a pain in the arse I could do without. The best taxis in Saigon are Vinasun Taxi and Mai Linh Taxi, which should offer a metered service and are considered the most trust worthy.

Unfortunately Ho Chi Minh is not a charming city; however my initial thoughts were a little misguided since the place was like a ghost town when I first arrived, due to the New Year holiday. Once everywhere began to open up it seemed much more welcoming, and the place began to grow on me, though I think I would need a good reason to come back anytime soon.

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What a journey …


I got the idea that there were several places that rented motorbikes in the city but unless I actually saw, in English, the words ‘Rent Motorbike’ I wasn’t going anywhere near them. I was sure I would have to surrender my passport, and there was no way I was going to hand it over to some geezer on the street that I can’t even have a conversation with. I ran a search on Google Maps for rentals in the city when a handful came up. One that caught my eye in particular was a place called Chi’s Café. It was a fair distance journey on foot but I figured if this was all that I did that day then it would be worth it. I set out around mid-day in the hot sun following my cursor on the map, as I meandered my way down back alleys and side streets. After an hour I was starting to get a bit pissed off, but I could now see many more foreigners on the streets, so I figured I was getting close to a tourist area.

I began to think Chi’s Café could also just be a woman, who doesn’t speak English, by the side of the street renting bikes, but I had to give it a shot. About twenty minutes later, I found the café, and it was right in the heart of the tourist area, and it probably would have been a good place to stay with an abundance of cheap guesthouses. There were dozens of restaurants, and I guessed this is where most foreigners hang out, especially backpackers. The area is called Phạm Ngũ Lão Street and everyone spoke pretty good English, which was a first since I had I arrived in the country. I knew there must have been a tourist congregation somewhere in the city and this was it.

After having some well needed lunch, I enquired about renting a motorbike and there seemed to be a few decent ones around. She said it was 120,000 dong (£4) a day, so I said I would take it for 4 days. After paying my bill and surrendering my passport, Chi showed me to my dusty, clapped-out old banger of a bike, she had brought out from a dark and dank corner. After wiping away the cobwebs she told me that I mustn’t take the bike out of the city, which was my intention, but by the look of it I didn’t think it would make it anyway. I think she said that if the police stop me on the bike outside the city they will confiscate it, but I wondered whether she was just ‘blowing smoke’. She also said that I mustn’t just park the bike anywhere because it will get stolen, and I must leave it with someone and get a ticket … outside a restaurant etc.


Nice mirror!

Security guards are a common sight outside shops even during the day, and there are barriers in use protecting department stores and the like. I was hoping to take the bike to the Cu Chi Tunnels and complete number #8 of my travel bucket list in style, but I guess for now that will have to do. I have plans in the pipeline to buy a motorbike in Asia in the next couple of years and may do an extensive road trip then; possibly China as well, but that’s a blog for another day.

Ho Chi traffic 2

So I got on the bike, that was probably older than me, and headed out onto the busy streets of Ho Chi Minh City, and I don’t mind telling you I was shitting myself with traffic coming from all directions and near death experiences on every turn. Out of habit, I kept looking in my right hand mirror when I kept realising the thing was missing, so moving into the right hand lane was a little tricky! I had a rough idea of the direction I wanted to go in, but I had to stop a couple of times to check the map. Slightly trembling, I made it back to the hotel in one peace. Parking at the hotel has security so at least I didn’t have to worry about that. Dodgy place, Vietnam, with a lot of crooks about!

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Hồ Chí Minh


I discovered I wasn’t far away from the action with several attractions being within an hour’s walk away. In accordance with my travel bucket list, I was keen to hire a motorbike, but there was nowhere near the hotel that rented them. I decided I would head into the town centre on foot and try my luck there. However, I was a little concerned about security at the hotel and was a bit worried about leaving a rental outside.

I saved a few locations on Google Maps including the War Remnants Museum, Cu Chi Tunnels and Saigon Square including a couple of places for potential bike rental. I figured that would be a good start for my first day in Vietnam.

I was keen to do some tours, but I do like to seek places out for myself first, and in anticipation of doing some motorcycling I saved an offline map on my Tablet, which I thought would come in handy later. Downtown Hồ Chí Minh is quite small, probably not much more than two miles squared. It is quite common to be stopped by men on motorbikes asking if I needed a taxi, but I just waved them on and shook my head. They are not official, or regulated, and most of the bikes look like leftovers from the war. The city itself is modern though, to me, it looked like it had been built in the 90s and hasn’t been upgraded since. Following the war, that ended in 1975, major redevelopment took place in the late1970s.

The War occurred in Vietnam from November 1, 1955, to the fall of Saigon on April 30, 1975. US and South Vietnamese forces relied on air superiority and overwhelming firepower to conduct search and destroy operations involving ground forces, artillery and airstrikes. In the course of the war, the US conducted a large-scale strategic bombing campaign against North Vietnam.


Hồ Chí Minh was a Vietnamese Communist revolutionary leader who was prime minister (1945–55) and president (1945–69) of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam). He was a key figure in the foundation of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in 1945, as well as the People’s Army during the Vietnam War. He is highly regarded in Vietnam, obviously, since they renamed (Saigon) a city after him and his portrait is on all the banknotes. However, the name provokes strong anti-communist feeling in a substantial number of Vietnamese, especially those living abroad and many continue to refer to the city as Sài Gòn, in rejection of the new Communist-imposed name.

Hồ Chí Minh stepped down from power in 1965 due to health problems but remained a highly visible figurehead and inspiration for those Vietnamese fighting for his cause—a united, communist Vietnam—until his death. After the war, Saigon, the former capital was renamed Hồ Chí Minh City. With the outcome of the Vietnam War still in question, Hồ Chí Minh died in 1969 from heart failure at his home in Hanoi, aged 79. His embalmed body is currently on display in a mausoleum in Ba Đình Square in Hanoi despite his will stating that he wanted to be cremated.

It took a couple of days to get my head around the currency. It’s about 32,000 dong to the pound and notes can build up fast, so it’s wise to try to spend the lower denominations as and when, and within two days my wallet was filled with a massive wedge. I don’t think breaking change for a 500,000 note is a problem in most places, but I usually saved those for places I knew could handle it, like Pizza Hut, and tried to unload the smaller notes when eating from street sellers etc.

Ho chi minh currency vietnam

Due to the New Year celebrations, most of the city was closed and traffic seemed light compared to what I thought it would be like. Certainly not like the ‘chocking standstill traffic’ I’d read about, but I was sure once the things got back to normal I was in for a surprise. I figured I should get my arse into gear and hire a motorbike whilst the city was in ‘downtime’.

It was a 30 minute walk in the hot sun to get into the centre of town, and I figured a good place to start was the War Remnants Museum. It cost 15,000 dong (46p) for the entrance fee. It was definitely worth the visit but it was very overcrowded and too hot to stand there reading all of the information on the walls, so I cruised through at a reasonable pace.

Outside in the courtyard, there were various war vehicles that were left behind after the Americans left. Unfortunately, again, there were people everywhere and I was getting a little frustrated trying to take photos without people in my shot. I couldn’t believe how many people could see that I was trying to take a photo but would just walk in front of me anyway, not even acknowledging they had done it. Most photos I did get normally contained signs saying ‘No climbing’ or ‘Do not touch’ which kind of kills the magic a little anyway and makes them less likely I would put them on Instagram.


There was a guillotine which I was rather impressed with. It was my first one, and although a rather archaic device, there was something rather historic and authentic about it, which I always find exciting … obviously not for the poor sods that met their end this way! There was also a mock-up prisoner in a cell and a few recovered torture devices on display. In the main building was an abundance of photos and paintings with descriptions. There was an exhibit of photographs and newspaper articles on protests from around the world condemning US involvement in the War. I tried to find if the UK had protested but I couldn’t find any evidence …


After the museum, I headed to Saigon Square but Google Maps must have given me bad directions because I couldn’t see anything. All I saw was an abandoned street that looked like a Soviet compound after a nuclear meltdown. Not impressed, I trudged along in the heat of the day until I stumbled upon the main concentration of tourist hotspots, which I later discovered was Saigon Square … there seems to be more than one! From a distance, I could see Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office where I managed to buy and send some postcards. The Post Office was rather quaint and looked like an old train station with a huge arched ceiling; however, I didn’t know what it was until I got inside the building. Although the Vietnamese use the Roman alphabet, there is very little English throughout the whole town which makes visiting restaurants, and other buildings, slightly off-putting. It seems that most places aren’t that welcoming, which I would say is mostly a language thing. In Pattaya, Thailand, you can’t walk 30 seconds without someone calling you into a shop, restaurant, massage, taxi etc.

More photos of Vietnam coming soon on Instagram.

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Vietnam Baby!


After years of threatening to visit Vietnam I finally got around to doing it. In my early days of traveling to Asia, I was told a few horror stories about the country. None of which would bother me today, but I think hearing rumours about dodgy taxi drivers or currency issues created a deep routed apprehension about coming alone but, on first glimpse of Ho Chi Minh City, I wondered why I had left it so long.

Usually I can find, and book, a hotel on in less than fifteen minutes but, a few weeks previous to the trip, I spent over four hours browsing hotels. I had never seen so many bad reviews for hotels in all my travelling days. Possibly weakening in will-power, I booked a place that only had one review, which of course was impeccable. Like a newbie, I paid for the room straight-up, in line with hotel policy. Afterwards I thought it was probably a mistake to book a place with only one review because anyone could have written it. A week before the trip, I went back to see if there was any other reviews … when my heart sank. A woman had left a review saying that the place was down an alleyway and right in front of the hotel was a building site. She also said that she had been robbed outside the hotel, and the place wasn’t near any of the hotpots. Seeing as I had already paid (with no refund), I was committed and decided to just go with the flow.

I usually try and stay in cheap to mid-range hotels in Thailand and avoid backpacker places unless I’m in a party mood. Nowadays I prefer my own air-conditioned room, preferably with a TV and my own bathroom. My rule is never more than £20 a night, but I normally stay in places from anywhere between £7 to £15. Since I was visiting Ho Chi Minh for a week’s holiday, I thought I would push the boat out a little and book what I thought would be a good hotel.

I always get a little nervous when visiting a new country and reading about places can often be a bad idea. I managed to skip through Immigration without having to queue. My suitcase was the first to come out on the carousel and there were plenty of kiosks to book a prepaid taxi, in the terminal building. Everything was going swimmingly until I enquired about getting a SIM card for my Tablet. The girl wanted to fit it for me and asked me to remove it from its case when … smash the screen went. Absolutely gutted, I didn’t bother with the SIM card in the end. Feigning happiness, I left the kiosk and headed for my taxi.


My mood was quickly lifted though when I walked into my hotel room which was absolutely amazing, and it’s safe to say that it’s probably one of the nicest hotel rooms I’ve ever been in. It was huge, and the luxury bathtub made everything nice and cosy. I hooked up my media player to the 42” flat screen TV on the wall and now my palace was complete.

I was checked in by 10.00am so I still had the whole of the first day to go and explore, so I spent an hour on Tripadvisor and Google Maps, whilst I figured out my next move. I then took a walk around the city for a couple of hours, but I was slightly out of the tourist areas and was the subject of many a bewildered look, as I followed the map around fruitlessly trying to find an HSBC bank. I found myself walking through some local alleyways where there were loads of people playing cards and gambling on games I had never seen before. All shops seemed to be closed. It was a Tuesday and I was wondering whether it was a public holiday (Chinese New Year). After a long day of no sleep and too much caffeine, I took solace in relaxing in my fantastic, spacious hotel room and had and early night.

Hawain shirt

I know … nice shirt! No wonder I was getting looks …

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